When sewing hems, you have a number of options depending on the fabric and garment. Let’s take this opportunity to explore types of hems & how to sew them in several ways!
- What Is a Hem?
- What Is The Difference Between A Seam And A Hem?
- What Stitch Do You Use For Hemming?
- How Do You Sew A Straight Hem?
- Different Types of Hems
- Tips For Sewing Hems
What Is a Hem?
A hem is the finished edge of a garment, sewn so that it has an end. This makes it more durable and gives your piece that store-bought look you’re looking for!
Hemming can be done with anything from basic hand stitching to sewing machine techniques like bias tape or other handy tools in between; there are even various ways of doing them by using special machines called “hem grand machiner”.
- Bias Tape: A strip of fabric is used to fold over the edges and bind them.
- Blind Hemmer: A hemming machine that sews a chain stitch with the needle bent in order to hide threads.
- Hem Allowance: The fabric that often lies beneath the main body of a garment is called hems. This measurement can vary from 1/4″ to 2″, depending on what you’re designing and making – smaller allowances work best for fuller garments while wider ones create less bulk under them so they won’t show when worn long-term or paired with another article like jeans.
- Hem Repair Tape: The best way to fix a broken hem is with an iron-on strip that bonds the two surfaces together.
- Hem Stabilizer: There are a number of different ways to add structure and volume, like fusible interfacings that can be appliqued to the garment. Different types include horsehair braid or adhesive tape for hemming instead of stitching it up!
- Hem Tape: If you’re working with heavier fabrics, like denim, for example, it’s important not to add unnecessary bulk from multiple folds. Hem tape is a length of material that can be sewn onto the end of your fabric so as not to have an unfinished edge exposed when rolled up and stored away easily later on during production time!
What Is The Difference Between A Seam And A Hem?
As seams and hems are two of the most common finishes for fabrics, it’s easy to confuse them. A seam is when you join pieces together with other types such as zippers or buttons; while a hem refers only edge-wise sewing on one side (the inside).
What Stitch Do You Use For Hemming?
You can choose from a variety of stitches when you hem your sewing projects. The type that is best for the fabric and finishing will depend on what kind of garment it’s being stitched into, as well as which side faces outwards (i.e., if this would be seen or hidden by someone).
How Do You Sew A Straight Hem?
I’ve found that there is nothing worse than sewing a hem on something and finding it not to be perfectly straight.
I often use tailor’s chalk, which helps me align my fabric better with the grain of sew-through or serger presser feet while keeping an even distance between folded edge and cutting surface so you get a nice stitch line too!
I also recommend using seam gauges for accuracy when measuring your own hems; they’re inexpensive tools that can save time if done right.”
Different Types of Hems
Let’s have a look at the different types of hems:
1. Single Fold Hem
A single fold hem is exactly what you think. The fabric at the bottom turns once and then it’s stitched in place to keep things tidy, without any extra bulk or material on top!
2. Double Fold Hem
The double fold hem is more widely used than the single because it encloses raw edges and helps to keep your garment in pristine condition. However, with heavier fabrics, this type can be a challenge as there’s an added bulkiness due to all of those layers on top!
3. Blind Hem
This type of hemming is so clever, it’s almost invisible to the eye! You can use a special blind hem sewing machine foot for this style.
4. Rolled Hem
A rolled hem is a technique that can be sewn by hand or machine on lightweight fabrics.
There is no visible fabric edge as it ‘rolls away’ inside the finished product, making this type of sewing more difficult to execute than others but ultimately giving you that tailored look!
5. Pin Hem
There’s no need to sew a single or double hem greater than 5 mm on your skirt when you can choose from one of the many different styles available. A pin hem is great for skirts, as it allows you more control and flexibility in how much fabric shows at each side.
This type has been around since ancient times because warriors would have had their outfits sewn with pins before fighting battles!
6. Faced Hem
A faced hem can give such a professional finish to your hand-sewn clothing.
Drafted to complement the shape of an assortment, this design feature has no real limit as far as style goes but always looks great on projects with tailored fits like jackets and suits!
7. Bound Hem
One of the easiest hems to finish, you create a bound hem by sewing binding along with the fabric’s allowance so that it can be wrapped and enclosed. I have an easy tutorial here that shows how bindings work for this purpose!
8. Piped Hem
A piped hem is a simple way to add some detail to your skirt.
9. Lettuce Edged Hem
This hem leaves your garment with a gently waved edge, popular on girls’ skirts and dresses. The fabric is zig-zagged before being sewn to create an extra stretchy edge that will hold up nicely in the wash!
10. Turned Hem
The turned hem is a simple and classic type of finishing that can be used on any fabric. To create this style, you simply turn your hems allowance under so they meet together with the wrong sides touching before sewing them in place!
Tips For Sewing Hems
The following tips will help you while sewing hems:
- Use a sewing gauge or tape measure to mark the hem accurately as it is one of the last things you want, and can’t thank yourself enough once everything else has been sewn.
- If you’re hemming a lightweight fabric, make sure to hang the garment up and let it drop overnight. This is essential for anything cut on the bias!
- If you are hemming a garment, wear it so that the final finished product will have an accurate hemline. You could do this with tailor’s chalk or basting stitch if your fabric is not delicate; otherwise, ask someone else!
- The fabric edge should be finished before hemming. You can use a zig-zag stitch, an overlocker/serger, pinking shears, or even hem tape!
- When deciding on the hem type you want, think about what width is ideal for your project and wardrobe. I’ll go over all the different styles of hems further down in this guide!
- Make sure you have the right interfacing for your garment type because it will give a finished edge and help to hold in place. You can use fusible or sew-in interfacings; either one works well with most fabrics but think about this early on when deciding which fabric choice is best suited towards what project goals are!
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